Day 14 (June 24)-Newport Beach to San Juan Capistrano to San Luis Rey (Oceanside/Carlsbad)
Carolyn got up early this morning and drove me and my trusty steed back to Newport Beach, where I finished yesterday's ride to San Juan Capistrano, "The Jewel of the Missions." The morning was cool, with coastal clouds hanging low. The Coast Highway goes up and down hills through beautiful Laguna Beach and Dana Point. A little less than two hours later, with the sun starting to peek through the gray ceiling, I was pulling up to the mission.
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By the way, I got bit by yet ANOTHER speed bum in the parking lot of this mission. Nothing serious--no scrapes or bruises, no bent bicycle parts. I even saw the stupid thing, and it still got me. Would someone please tell me: Why are these Saints after me? I really did cheer for them last time they were in the Superbowl!
We overnighted in Carlsbad, a beach community right next door to Oceanside. It is one of our favorite villages. Tomorrow I will set out on the LAST DAY of my cycling journey.
Newport Beach to San Juan Capistrano: 20 miles
San Juan Capistrano to San Luis Rey: 37 miles
Missions visited: 20 (Only one more left!)
Miles biked today: 57
Total miles cycled this trip: 818
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| The bells at San Juan Capistrano, with the chapel which was destroyed in the 1812 earthquake and never rebuilt. |
The church was said to be the most elaborate of all the missions, sporting seven domes. The Great California Earthquake of 1812 occurred as natives were worshipping in the chapel. Forty two of them were killed in the disaster. The Serra Chapel, built in 1788, survived and is the only chapel still existing where Father Serra actually officiated.
This mission was also one of the most technologically advanced for its day. It's aqueducts are still usable. Its smelters heated metal to 2200 degrees F. San Juan Capistrano is probably most famous for its swallows. They leave the mission every year near the Day of San Juan (October 23) and return to the mission faithfully near the Day of Saint Joseph (March 19). The mission welcomes them by ringing the bells. Their winter home is in Argentina.
From Capistrano, it was downhill for several miles to the ocean, then along the coast most of the way to Oceanside. On one part of the route, I was up and down the residential streets of San Clemente--reminiscent of San Francisco! Another part of this leg was along the Old Coast Highway, which existed before Interstate 5 was built. The northern part of it is parking places for RVs along the coast, part of several State parks. The southern part was the most interesting to me. The road existed, albeit a bit overgrown, as it must have when it was in use, but no cars can drive on it. Instead, a bike path is maintained along what was its west shoulder. Riding along it had a kind of "throw back" feel. The next part was through part of Camp Pendleton, a U.S. Marine base, where I had to show ID to be allowed admittance. I was passed once in a while by armored vehicles full of soldiers in full gear. Once off the base, I connected with the San Luis Rey River Trail and headed inland toward the mission. All in all, this was one of the more pleasant rides of the trip.
There was no problem finding the mission. It's blue dome and alabaster walls could be sign for more than a mile away from the valley (which was unusual, as most of the missions were not in prominent view, either because of man-made structures or their original setting). San Luis Rey is known as "The King of the Missions." Among its many claims to fame, the first Peruvian Pepper Tree in California was planted at the mission. This species is now prolific in the Southern California and the Southwest. There is a large collection of original artifacts, including the hammered copper baptistery, which sits in the original location in the church. Maybe it was just my projection, but it seemed to me that this mission had much for of a "French" feel to it than the others.
This mission was also one of the most technologically advanced for its day. It's aqueducts are still usable. Its smelters heated metal to 2200 degrees F. San Juan Capistrano is probably most famous for its swallows. They leave the mission every year near the Day of San Juan (October 23) and return to the mission faithfully near the Day of Saint Joseph (March 19). The mission welcomes them by ringing the bells. Their winter home is in Argentina.
From Capistrano, it was downhill for several miles to the ocean, then along the coast most of the way to Oceanside. On one part of the route, I was up and down the residential streets of San Clemente--reminiscent of San Francisco! Another part of this leg was along the Old Coast Highway, which existed before Interstate 5 was built. The northern part of it is parking places for RVs along the coast, part of several State parks. The southern part was the most interesting to me. The road existed, albeit a bit overgrown, as it must have when it was in use, but no cars can drive on it. Instead, a bike path is maintained along what was its west shoulder. Riding along it had a kind of "throw back" feel. The next part was through part of Camp Pendleton, a U.S. Marine base, where I had to show ID to be allowed admittance. I was passed once in a while by armored vehicles full of soldiers in full gear. Once off the base, I connected with the San Luis Rey River Trail and headed inland toward the mission. All in all, this was one of the more pleasant rides of the trip.
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| Mission San Luis Rey de Francia (after King Louis IX of France, for his support of the Crusades) |
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| Arch from the original mission leading to the retreat center. |
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| Bell tower at San Luis Rey |
By the way, I got bit by yet ANOTHER speed bum in the parking lot of this mission. Nothing serious--no scrapes or bruises, no bent bicycle parts. I even saw the stupid thing, and it still got me. Would someone please tell me: Why are these Saints after me? I really did cheer for them last time they were in the Superbowl!
We overnighted in Carlsbad, a beach community right next door to Oceanside. It is one of our favorite villages. Tomorrow I will set out on the LAST DAY of my cycling journey.
Newport Beach to San Juan Capistrano: 20 miles
San Juan Capistrano to San Luis Rey: 37 miles
Missions visited: 20 (Only one more left!)
Miles biked today: 57
Total miles cycled this trip: 818
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