Day Zero--Arriving at the Beginning, Which is the End

June 10, 2011

Day Zero--Arriving at the Beginning, Which is the End

El Camino Real Markers and Mark

Sonoma, California.
"Real Wine Country," or so the signs read. Carolyn and I are ending the day which is really the beginning. "Go time!" is at 8 AM tomorrow when I'll start pedaling from Mission San Francisco de Solano, which is the really the end--chronologically, historically speaking in regards to the California mission chain. It was the last mission founded, and also the mission furthest north. More on that in a moment.

This day, however, started and ended on somewhat inauspicious notes. The alarm went off at 6 AM, an hour earlier than we were planning. However, it wasn't my alarm. And it wasn't Carolyn's ringer. Alas, it was the hotel-provided waker-upper--their clock--which obviously the previous guest had set and had not totally turned off. I, in all my brilliance, for the life of me could not figure out how to shut the dang thing off! By the time I found the snooze, Carolyn was up and in the shower. It wasn't until a half hour later that I apologized to her about her early rousting At that point, I found out that she thought it was our alarm, and that it was an hour later than it really was! Miscommunication, mis(sed)-sleep, mis-everything! However, it gave us plenty of time to get to State Street Coffee Shop and enjoy beverages and baked good before heading north on El Camino Real--the Royal Road--which eventually connected all the missions of California.

U.S. Highway 101 fairly approximates the old "road," which was more of a path for feet and hooves. And it changed course as new missions were established along the way. Nonetheless, many of the missions lay close to this ribbon of concrete that connects San Diego to San Rafael. The first part of the highway this morning took us along the Pacific Coast, then inland over Cuesta Pass to the Salinas Valley. One author I read noted that the Spaniards stuck to the river valleys and avoided routes that hiked up rugged mountains. As a cyclist, I say "Bravo" to that philosophy! I imagine the many cyclists we saw riding south of Highway 101 were questioning that as they were racing up and down the rolling terrain. We saw "event tents" set up just north of Gaviota, and saw numerous cyclists all the way to where the Pacific Coast Highway breaks off on its own on its way to Vandenberg and Lompoc. Of course, I'm thinking that will be me twenty four hours from now. Although I'm quite certain I won't be pedaling quite as hard or going near that fast.

The descent into and travel through the Salinas River valley is almost indescribable. At the highest (south) end, around Atascadero and Paso Robles, there are acres upon hundred of acres of carefully planted vineyards. Their parallel geometric rows climb up the sides of hills and hug the curvature of the earth. The combination of nature's vines and man's architecture meld seamlessly in the landscape. As the valley widens, more and more produce is grown, much of which we consume in Arizona! (I know this, because Carolyn identified several brands of organic vegetables she buys as we passed trucks hauling them for shipment.) The rounded hills rise prominently up either side, and the ocean fog hangs over the tops of the peaks in the west. It is no wonder that the early Spanish missionaries selected no less than four such sites for their work.

El Camino Real is marked by bells on a shepherds crook at intervals along the highway (see photo above). These appeared in the early 1900s so that this history did not get lost. Some of these markers are rusty and show decades of wear, but stand out clearly as a monument to the forays made into this new place.

There is a common misnomer that the missions were established in order from South to North, as they are often numbered as such, even on a postcard I bought today at the mission. San Diego (#1) was indeed the first mission established (1796), and San Francisco de Solano (Sonoma) was the last (1823). However, the order stops there. San Carlos Borromeo (Carmel) was the second mission established (1770), and like San Diego, was secured by sea rather than land. San Antonio de Padua, just west of the Salinas River valley, was the third mission founded, and it sits on the land route between San Diego and Carmel. In a later post I will list the missions in the order they were settled. But for now, know that I am following the mission chain geographically from North to South, not chronologically (even though I start at the most recent and finish at the first).

The road re-enters civilization as it makes its way into "Silicon Valley" and the San Jose area. We go around the east Bay through Fremont and Oakland, and rejoin Hwy 101 just south of San Rafael. A jaunt back east and a bit north puts us in Sonoma about 2 PM.

As I mentioned early, the mission at Sonoma--San Francisco de Solano--established in 1823, was the last mission to be founded. By that time, Spanish Alta California was now Mexico, and Solano was the first and only mission to be established under Mexican reign. The mission had a short life span, only two years, before it was "secularized" (which I'll explain in more detail in a later post). The mission became a parish church, but was then badly neglected. The "Bear Flag Revolt," begun by 33 settlers in Sonoma and General John Fremont in 1846, right across the street from the mission, was the start of California's independence from Mexico. Eventually, the mission ended up in the possession of the State of California and has been restored and is a museum commemorating the entire Franciscan missionary enterprise. One of the displays we saw today stated that preserving the California missions was beyond creed and sect, and the history belonged to us all. I couldn't agree more.

Carolyn in the Courtyard at San Francisco de Solano (Sonoma)

San Francisco de Solano is not a "fancy" mission, in fact it is plainer than most. But it was very functional, and was home to a few priests and Indians alike. It sits on the northeast corner of the plaza, and is in a real sense the "cornerstone" of the town.

I did discover today that in the 1939, miniatures of the California Missions were displayed at the World's Fair on Treasure Island in the San Francisco. This models were moth-balled, and were going to be auctioned off individually in 1998. The Cline family, who own Cline Cellars, a vineyard not far from Sonoma, purchased the entire set so they would not be dispersed, and created a special museum not far from here. I contemplated taking the time to see it, but since I plan on visiting each of the real ones in person, then I will probably forgo that pleasure.

This afternoon I felt something very hot in my pocket. My cell phone was shorting out! Tomorrow I will have to cycle "unassisted" by my phone (which I carry for emergencies), but called Verizon this evening and can get it replaced in San Francisco tomorrow evening. Not a great ending to a pretty good day. But the friars survived without cell phones, I guess I can, too.

To end on a more humorous note: Yesterday as we were driving through Pomona, California, there was (of course) road construction underway. One of the off ramps was being majorly overhauled. One of those yellow-orange lighted signs was flashing, and read:

OFF RAMP CLOSED

6-20-2011 TIL

FOREVER

At least someone was being honest!