Day 4 (June 14)--Santa Cruz to San Juan Bautista to Carmel (reposted with photos)
A light fog was obscuring the tops of the tall trees when I left early this morning for Mission San Juan Bautista. The first part of my ride was through the coastal forest, a mix of coniferous and deciduous trees, with heavy undergrowth which closely resembled a temperate rainforest in the early morning mist. (Carolyn noticed on her drive through this area that at times the scent of the Eucalyptus trees was almost like smelling Vicks.) The past few days I had circled most of the San Francisco Bay. Today I would journey around Monterey Bay, starting at Santa Cruz.
Once I turned inland toward Watsonville, the sun began to peak through the clouds. This inland part of the area is now literally ripe with produce… as Carolyn would describe it, “Field upon field upon field.” She’s a label-reader, and says that about all the berries we buy and some vegetables come from Watsonville. A few smaller vineyards were being tended, but most all the crops were low growing vegetables and tons of strawberries! I passed the Driscoll strawberry plantation, where both male and female workers were harvesting.
So far, this is the most “authentic” looking mission. It is built in the “quadrangle” style of many other missions. The town of San Juan Bautista has maybe 100 buildings altogether, including shops, stores, houses and the mission. This mission has not been abandoned since its founding in 1797 (the fifteenth mission). The mission got its name because it was founded on the Feast Day of John the Baptist. The bell tower here struck me as a particular iconic symbol of the California Missions.
The surrounding view from the mission is spectacular. Overlooking the broad valley of San Juan Creek and the adjacent farmlands, this edifice seems to be located in the perfectly appropriate place. The mission cemetery looks out in this direction, giving the place an almost surreal serenity. Some 4,000 Native Americans and European settlers are buried on the grounds.
Mass was just ending when I arrived. The chapel and grounds look much like they would have in its heyday in the early 1800s. The community was preparing for San Juan Days, to occur this coming weekend. The town looks like an Old West Town with a slight Spanish feel to it. (Carolyn said the feel was like stepping onto the set of an old Western movie.) During the Gold Rush Days, the town and mission were a frequent stop for travelers. One of the rooms was temporary housing for the Breen family, who survived the Donner Party tragedy when crossing the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Interestingly, the San Andreas Fault runs right along side the mission. Parts of the original El Camino Real can be seen from the mission site.
After some great sandwiches at the “Mission Café” down the street, I once again took off on two wheels. My original plan was to take a road called “San Juan Grade” over the mountains to Monterey. However, after my experience earlier this morning with lesser known trails, and the fact that my legs were turning to jelly from a couple of days of significant hill climbing, I decided to follow the highways, part of which includes segments of the De Anza historic route from Tucson, Arizona to San Francisco.
The four lane highways were busy with traffic, including large trucks and semi-trailers, but the shoulder in most places was wide. About 8 miles into my ride, my front derailleur (the mechanism that moves the chains between the two front sprockets of the bike) jammed. I could only use the highest gears—my lowest climbing gears became unavailable, which was unfortunate because there were some notable grades I had to pedal. About 20 miles from San Juan Bautista, I exited the highway and took the Monterey Coastal Trail, a very well maintained bikeway, around the girth of Monterey Bay on my way to Carmel.
Unfortunately, I stayed on this bypass for too long. Instead of taking the most direct route to the Carmel Mission, I skirted the Pacific Coast to Carmel, adding about 15 additional miles to the day. I ended up on 17-mile Drive, which runs along the seashore and through the famed Pebble Beach Golf Course. It was a magnificent route, but to be honest, by this point I was a bit tired and probably didn’t appreciate it to its fullest. I finally arrived at Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmel just after 6pm. Carolyn had arrived there before the mission closed, and had glowing reports. We would both tour the mission the next morning.
Our motel, the Carmel Mission Inn, was a wonderful place to stay! It is on Carolyn’s “gotta come back here” list. Rumor has it that it is owned by Clint Eastwood but who knows for sure! There is so much to do in and around Carmel. After dinner at the restaurant on site, we retired to the room, where I rested my legs.
Santa Cruz to San Juan Bautista: 41 miles
San Juan Bautista to Carmel (seaside route): 50 miles
Total Missions visited: 7
Total Miles Cycled Today: 91
Total Miles Biked Thus Far: 285
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| Driscoll's Strawberry Plantation outside Watsonville |
My route led me further in toward the Gabilan Range of the coastal mountains. The roads were getting narrower and narrower (but still paved, and consistent with my Google Map directions). What I have discovered is that Google is not very clear when roads cease to become hard surface, and turn into some other form (hand pack, dirt, gravel, etc.). I turn right on Aromitas Road, which becomes a narrow, semi-paved street heading steeply up the side of the mountains. I have to stop on occasion to catch my breath. The road then turns to dirt and pebbles, and I keep on going. Finally, I reach the summit. Instead of taking me around the mountain, this road takes me directly over the mountain. But the route still looks correct (though not quite what I expected). The dirt, to my relief, merges with a paved road. However, there is no road sign. Once again, I have no idea whether I am to turn right (up the hill) or left (down the hill). There is no traffic on the road. I start to get a bit concerned. An older local man, driving what appears to be a 1960s vintage compact automobile, stops as I wave for help. Turn left and follow this road to San Juan Bautista. Seems easy enough. I turn left and enjoy coasting downhill.
I get to another intersection. No road signs. I ask a guy driving a county truck behind a tractor that is mowing grass alongside the road for directions. He gives me two routes (like I’m in any position to make that choice!). “Which is shorter?” I ask. I turn around to take the route with less miles, although I discover it takes me around San Juan Bautista instead of into it. (It’s not that big of a place, and could easily be missed.)
Forty one miles and about four hours later I arrive at the Mission. Carolyn had already scouted it out and taken pictures.
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| Arrival at Mission San Juan Bautista |
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| The church and bell tower at Mission San Juan Bautista |
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Looking outward from San Juan Bautista's cemetary |
Mass was just ending when I arrived. The chapel and grounds look much like they would have in its heyday in the early 1800s. The community was preparing for San Juan Days, to occur this coming weekend. The town looks like an Old West Town with a slight Spanish feel to it. (Carolyn said the feel was like stepping onto the set of an old Western movie.) During the Gold Rush Days, the town and mission were a frequent stop for travelers. One of the rooms was temporary housing for the Breen family, who survived the Donner Party tragedy when crossing the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Interestingly, the San Andreas Fault runs right along side the mission. Parts of the original El Camino Real can be seen from the mission site.
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| Friar's quarters-San Juan Bautista |
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| Statue in front of San Juan Bautista's church |
There is this interesting statue in front of the mission. The man in the loin cloth we take to be John the Baptist. On the pedestal are symbols—a buffalo, a Native American and two symbols—with verses from each of the Gospels on each side of the stand. We never did discover all the symbolism of this sculpture.
After some great sandwiches at the “Mission Café” down the street, I once again took off on two wheels. My original plan was to take a road called “San Juan Grade” over the mountains to Monterey. However, after my experience earlier this morning with lesser known trails, and the fact that my legs were turning to jelly from a couple of days of significant hill climbing, I decided to follow the highways, part of which includes segments of the De Anza historic route from Tucson, Arizona to San Francisco.
The four lane highways were busy with traffic, including large trucks and semi-trailers, but the shoulder in most places was wide. About 8 miles into my ride, my front derailleur (the mechanism that moves the chains between the two front sprockets of the bike) jammed. I could only use the highest gears—my lowest climbing gears became unavailable, which was unfortunate because there were some notable grades I had to pedal. About 20 miles from San Juan Bautista, I exited the highway and took the Monterey Coastal Trail, a very well maintained bikeway, around the girth of Monterey Bay on my way to Carmel.
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| Monterey Costal Bikeway |
Our motel, the Carmel Mission Inn, was a wonderful place to stay! It is on Carolyn’s “gotta come back here” list. Rumor has it that it is owned by Clint Eastwood but who knows for sure! There is so much to do in and around Carmel. After dinner at the restaurant on site, we retired to the room, where I rested my legs.
Santa Cruz to San Juan Bautista: 41 miles
San Juan Bautista to Carmel (seaside route): 50 miles
Total Missions visited: 7
Total Miles Cycled Today: 91
Total Miles Biked Thus Far: 285
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