Day 5 (June 15)--Carmel to Soledad (reposted with photos)

Oak-studded golden hills greeted us out our motel room window when we rose this morning. It was an omen for a good day—and indeed it was. After a leisurely awakening, we set out for “From Scratch,” a breakfast venue in what was called “The Barnyard,” a very inviting and eclectic assortment of shops and restaurants in a beautiful garden-like setting. Our waitress last night recommended this place for breakfast, and we weren’t disappointed as we ate on their trellis roofed patio.

Bird lover that she is, Carolyn noticed signs throughout The Barnyard mall stating that the local blackbirds were nesting and to be aware! There was the real possibility of being dive bombed if they felt threatened! How funny! We heard them but never came face to face with any of the birds.


Just up from the restaurant was Bay Bikes, a bicycle shop that has been open for six months. I went in as soon as it opened at 10 AM and met Robin, the resident bike mechanic. I explained to him the dilemma with my shifting, and asked him if he would take a look at it. The guys at my local bike shop in Glendale (Bike Den, corner of Cactus and 43rd Avenues)—Ken, Mike and Kenny—take really good care of me and my bike, so I’m a bit spoiled. Robin told me to bring my bike up and he’d look at it. After a brief examination, he suggested I go get a cup of coffee or something while he worked on it. At this point, Carolyn and I set off for Carmel Mission.

The Majestic Mission San Carlos Borromeo, Carmel

Carmel was Father Junipero Serra’s “home base,” and was the second mission founded in Alta California, after San Diego. Both these areas were entered from the sea. Father Serra is also buried in the basilica on the mission. He was 54 years old when he arrived in San Diego, and for the next 16 years travelled the hills and valleys of the California coast, founding nine of its mission. He died at the age of 70. The places he established missions—San Diego, San Francisco, San Gabriel (Los Angeles)—have become centers for the largest cities in California, all having influence that spreads throughout the globe. The importance of the work of Serra, his associates and his successors is difficult to underestimate.



Statue of Father Serra (with
Mark) at Carmel Mission



The fact that Serra began his work in California and probably walked, sailed and rode horseback for thousands of miles has done two things for me: First, it makes me think I’m not totally insane for attempting this trip at 59 years old. On top of his age, Serra was lame when he reached San Diego. On the long and treacherous overland trip from Baja California, he got an infection in his leg. He insisted that they treat him the way they would treat a horse if he had the same kind of leg problem. His comrades applied a poultice of mud and herbs, which halted the infection, but left him debilitated. He never let that stop him. Interestingly, almost every statue we’ve seen has Serra carrying a walking stick. This makes sense now. Secondly, it makes me realize how relatively easy my journey is—traveling on paved roads with modern maps (my wife is utilizing a GPS) on a bicycle (a far more efficient mode of transportation than anything Serra knew). This trip puts many things for me in historical perspective.



Belltower from the coutyard
of Carmel Mission


This mission has an authentic and “large” feel to it. Carolyn commented that this mission has both a “celebrity” (perhaps because it was the second mission, maybe because of its location, and/or of course because of Serra’s history here) and “celebratory” feel to it. Of all the missions we’ve seen, this has the most Italian/Tuscan feel to it as well. There is a sense of magnificence and meaning to this complex. The architecture is unique and memorable. The grounds are serene and immaculately kept. And “history” oozes from every room, display and corner. There is a Kindergarten through 8th Grade school that is currently housed in the mission. What an incredible experience! I do hope it’s not lost on the students.

When Carolyn visited the mission yesterday, she was sharing our trip and how I was visiting all the missions by bike. When we came back today, the lady remembered our names, introduced me to the rest of the staff, waived our admission fee, and wished me “blessings” in my travels. “Father Serra will be so happy to meet you!” she said. She and all the staff were totally passionate about their work at the mission. If you’re reading this, dear lady, thank you again and we apologize for not remembering your name!



Carolyn relaxing in Mission
Carmel's courtyard



We head back to Bay Bikes. Robin had cleaned, tightened and adjusted my cycle, and now it is running smoothly! He also drew me a map of how to get out of town quickly and efficiently. Mounting my repaired machine, I headed out for Mission Nuestra Senora de la Soledad (“Our Lady of Solitude”). The first 8 miles were spent climbing up the mountains surrounding Monterey, again in beautiful and fragrant costal forests. I dropped down to the Salinas Monterey Highway, then picked up River Road, which parallels the Salinas River on the west and heads up the Valley. For the very first time on this trip my directions and the road signs corresponded perfectly. I didn’t get lost! There was a strong tailwind blowing, and I cycled past Soledad Mission without even seeing it. It is for sure the smallest mission we’ve visited, and is “lonely,” as its name implies.



Mission Nuestra Senora de la Soledad

Established in 1791, this mission suffered from lack of water and food. A flood in 1823 destroyed most of the mission. In 1835, the emaciated body of Fray Vincente de Sarria was found by the door of the chapel. The deserted mission became known as the place where a friar starved to death. In 1955, the mission was partially rebuilt. Care has obviously been taken to beautify the grounds and the small buildings.

Restored entrance to Mission Soledad

Today when we visited, we saw the signs of the ongoing archaeological excavations of the original site. The mission now sits in the middle of vast farmland, almost totally obscured from view. This morning we could barely find a parking place at the Carmel Mission. Here, we never saw another soul. Standing silent with the dust blowing about, this was truly the loneliest (soledad) mission we’ve seen so far.

Carmel to Soledad: 48 miles

Total Missions visited to date: 9

Total Miles Biked So Far: 333 miles